Hatching Tips

“Practice makes perfect”
Hatching eggs is very rarely through luck, it takes patience and time.
Your eggs need to settle for at least 24 hours if they came through the post. This allows the air-cell inside the egg to return to it's normal size. Eggs should always be stored with the pointy end down.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for set-up and correct temperature. We keep humidity at 45-50% increasing to 70% in the last 2 days
if you are manually turning, turn 3 times a day at regular intervals. Its best to mark one side on the egg with a (X) and the other (0) so you don't miss any out! (in pencil only)
Let nature take its course!
You have to keep an eye on the incubator even if if it is an automatic turn, several factors could cause a temperature change or the humidity level to change.

Candling begins on day 6 or 7. Take away any ‘clear’ “infertile’ eggs and leave only the fertile in the incubator. I candle every 3-4 days after this to make sure development is still good. If you are candling for the first time do not worry too much about interpreting what you are seeing in the egg, it does no real harm to leave all eggs in for the full 21 days.
Candling Diagram

Candling Diagram

This is a visual of what you would expect to see thoughout the incubation time.

All are normal development apart from the 'blood ring' which normally means the egg has bacteria in it. 

Pipping and Hatching

You should expect the eggs to 'pip' on day 20 or 21, you may even here the chicks before you see the hole in the egg!. Don't interfere at this stage unless you have had plenty of experience hatching. Don't open the incubator up more than once every 6 hours as you will lose the humidity. Leave the chicks in the incubator till fluffy. Then put them under a brooder / heat lamp ay about 35c. The chicks wont eat for the first 24-48 hours. Then they will want plenty of chicks crumbs and water.