Happy Chicks, Preesall

Happy Chicks, Preesall

Poultry Healthcare Problems

Poultry Healthcare Problems

Most poultry problem can be easily fixed, but with so many products on offer these days its not an easy choice to make!

We are NOT qualified vets but have ALOT of experience with poultry and may be able to help.

Give us a call on 01253 813178 and see if we can help

We are passionate about out poultry and any problems that new poultry keeper may have - we have probably had here!

All the products shown below are available in our 'Healthcare Products' section. But, please if in doubt please call!

Coccidiosis - Diarrhoea, Loss of weight, Hen looks 'untidy'

Coccidiosis - Diarrhoea, Loss of weight, Hen looks 'untidy'

This illness tend to effect chicks more than anything else, but is not unheard of in older flock members. The first signs are hens looking 'untidy' followed by huddling and Diarrhoea. In some cases blood maybe in the droppings. This is very easy to treat with Coxoid, There is a 28 day egg withdrawal on this product though. Hens will make a full recovery within 48 hours but treatment must continue for 7 days.

Pecking Order Problems

Pecking Order Problems

When introducing new birds to your existing flock you can sometimes get problems with a 'pecking order' this is perfectly natural and normally resolves its self within a few days. But... if the pecking continues or a hen is pecked so a little bit of blood is visable you must spray with an anit-pecking spray. This puts off the hens from pecking any further and also acts as a antiseptic so the hens wound heals quickly.

Open wounds on hens (cuts and grazes)

Open wounds on hens (cuts and grazes)

You treat a hen with an open wound the same way you would if it was pecked - Gentian Violet. This has an immediate effect and straight away helps keeps any cuts from getting infected.

Hens losing feathers

Hens losing feathers

This is very common in late summer through to winter. Hens 'moult' once a year and can drop all their feathers. They will grow their feather back quite quickly and start laying again soon after. This is natures way of giving the hens a break for laying you all those eggs throughout the year!! There are a couple of 'tonics; available to help hens get through this time when their condition is down

We also have a Poultry Spice as a 'tonic' for moulting. This is very effective and really helps the hens. This is especially suitable for Rescued Ex battery Hens

Another reason for hens losing feather around their 'back end' could be caused by mites. You must regulary 'dust' your hens with louse powder and red mite powder to ensure they don't get them. Treatments for lice is very easy. To check if you hens has lice hold them upside down and check their vent for lice eggs. These will be gather at the bottom of the feathers.

Diarrhoea and opening mouth quite a bit

Diarrhoea and opening mouth quite a bit

Diarrhoea could be a sign of worms. Worms are an internal parasite that can easily transmitted bird to bird. Regular rotation of the ground they are on easily avoids them getting worms. But if you hen is in a fixed house and using the same ground throughout the year worming them once a month is essential.

Chicken sneezing, coughing, runny nose

Chicken sneezing, coughing, runny nose

Hens get cold just like you and me. Always ensure you hens have access to perching and that you don't have too few hens in a huge house. Hens perch together at night to keep warm. If your hens has the sniffles just pop a few drops of Citricidal per litre into their drinking water. The cold will be gone in a few days.

Chicken sneezing, coughing, runny nose, diarrhoea, rattling and gasping

Chicken sneezing, coughing, runny nose, diarrhoea, rattling and gasping

This is a complicate one! If you hens have the above, they have Mycoplasma. This is very common in poultry and easily treated. Mycoplasma is an infection passed round hens though out the country. Hens with Mycoplasma need to have antibiotics. These antibiotics can be put in the drinking water of given straight to hen orally. We have High Stability Colloidal Silver which is a natural antibiotic - safe on humans and animals. You can either spray direct into the hens mouth twice a day or put a teaspoon in their drinking wwater

Hen not laying

Hen not laying

If you have hens not laying it could be for nay number of reasons. 1. Fancy hens such a Polish and Silkies are not reliable for eggs in the 1st place 2. They could be moulting 3. They are too young. Hens start laying between 18 and 24 weeks. Although this must not be set in stone. Hybrids generally lay earlier and more often than pure breeds 4. Hens are too old. Hens lay for many years but there will come a time (after 3-5 years) when your 'egg a day' will reduce to just a couple a week 5. Lice, mites or another condition that would leave them down. To tell how far you hens is from laying again we ahve done a diagram. This is especially useful when you have new young hens in or your hens have been moulting. 1. Turn you hen upside down so her 'vent' (where the eggs come out of!) is in the air 2. Place you hand directly over the vent and feel for two pelvic bones either side of the vent 3. See how many fingers you can get between the pelvic bones. I have average size hand for lady and this is how i work it..... One finger - weeks and weeks off laying Two fingers - 4-6 weeks off laying Two and a half fingers - couple of weeks off laying Three Fingers - Laying is VERY near - or she is laying! Good luck with this!

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